When I came across Oliver, a male Highland Dancer, I was most keen to ask him a few questions as I thought Highland Dancing was a female activity. My February Blog shows I was wrong about this so I was then excited to ask Danielle, a female Piper and friend of MacGregor and MacDuff, about her experience with Bagpiping in what could be considered a predominantly male pastime.

1. Can you tell us about yourself in around 50 words?

My name is Danielle, I’m 23 and have recently completed a degree in risk management. Both sides of my family are Scottish and I’ve grown up in Glasgow for the majority of my life.

2. What age were you when you began playing the pipes?

Seven years old.

3. What was the catalyst to make you begin playing the Pipes?

I have always grown up surrounded by traditional Scottish music. I remember from a young age being at family gatherings such as weddings, birthdays etc … my uncle, aunt and cousins would play the highland bagpipe as well as the small pipes, bodhran and penny whistle. It was always a fun atmosphere with everyone singing along. That’s really what inspired me, so I asked if I could go to lessons.

4. What were the challenges that you faced in learning the instrument?

You need to have patience…which is something I don’t really have! So that was probably the main challenge. Also memorising piobaireachd (a style of music) is a challenge, as its a very long, slow tune. Memorising what can be 20 minutes of music can also prove challenging.

5. How long did it take you to get to competition standard and what levels of practice are required to get to that stage?

The great thing when learning as a junior is that there are competitions aimed at various levels and abilities. I started on the chanter which is the basic part of the instrument before moving onto the highland bagpipe…I entered my first chanter competition when I was 7 and ended up winning it. While learning the instrument I would practise every night for at least an hour…thankfully I had neighbours that quite enjoyed the music! I then moved onto the highland bagpipe when I was about 10. When competing with a pipe band you will often attend practise for 2-3 hours, twice a week on top of your individual practise.

6. What titles have you won in your solo piping career?

Strathmore Junior Champion, the following year I went back to win Senior Champion
1st , 2nd place and Champion Lady Piper Craigmount Competition, Edinburgh
5th and 3rd place Cowal Highland Games
1st place Coupar Highland Games
1st place Bathgate Highland Games
1st place Airth Highland Games
2nd place Dundonald Highland Games
1st and 2nd place Milngavie piping competition
2nd St Andrews competition
2nd and 3rd place at The Scottish Pipe Band Championships solo competition
Dress & Deportment was something that I always seemed to win.

7. Which title made you the most proud and why?

To be honest I am proud of all of them, I would say winning the Strathmore competition was definitely a highlight, there were five different categories and I swept the board. My name is on just about every trophy! I would also say champion lady piper was an achievement because I had my eye on that trophy from a young age.

8. When you are at that top level, how much practice is required to maintain that standard?

At this level it is quite often the case that pipers will live for the instrument and essentially dedicate their lives to the bagpipe. It is essential to practise on a regular basis as the highland bagpipe is a difficult instrument to physically maintain.

9. What separates the top players from the ones that don’t quite win competition?

There are various aspects that need to be taken into consideration when competing. Such as; The pitch of the chanter – if its sharp or flat in pitch – temperature will also have an impact on pitch, you also have to take into consideration if the pitch of the chanter balances out against the tone of the drones, as well as the overall tuning of the drones. Over and under blowing can also have an impact in pitch…over blowing will result in a higher pitch and vice versa. The tempo of the tune and the musicality needs to be controlled in competition – it is quite often the case that nerves will result in uneasy blowing which can affect pitch and some performances can come across as being rushed due to nerves. The technique of your finger work on the chanter is also another major factor.
Judges can also take into account the overall presentation of the performance. Adding extras such as salute and marching will give a more professional performance.
After the results are announced the judges will sometimes have the critique sheets available so you know what they did or didn’t like about the performance. This sheet will also provide tips on how to improve your style of piping.

10. Which pipe band bands were you apart of?

My first pipe band was Lomond and Clyde Pipe Band, after a year there I then moved to Milngavie Pipe Band where I spent a few years, I then moved onto Strathclyde Fire & Rescue Pipe Band. I was also selected from over 600 young pipers by audition to be a member of the National Youth Pipe Band of Scotland. The window of opportunities gained from being part of pipe bands has included performances at Celtic Connections, Tartan Week New York, Performing at the Royal Albert Hall – London, Hampden Stadium, festivals in Civitavecchia, Italy and piping for Prince Charles.

11. Which awards did you win as part of a band?

With Lomond and Clyde & Strathclyde Fire and Rescue, we won the Scottish Championships, British Championships, Cowal Championships and were also European Champions…The one I haven’t yet won is the World Pipe Band Championships!

12. Is it more enjoyable as a soloist or as part of a band?

I personally enjoy the solo scene as I feel its significantly more rewarding. Being part of a band is great fun socially; you will sometimes travel around the UK competing so there is usually a lot of banter on the coach journey. After competing, the beer tent is where the majority of pipers will but its also great listening to other pipe bands.
I also like the overall impact that a pipe band has in comparison to a soloist. This is due to the pipe band being made up of chore of bagpipes and various drums, it does have a more powerful impact in regards to the sound produced.

13. What is your funniest moment when being involved in the piping scene?

When competing as a soloist you need to tell the judge the names of the tunes you are playing before starting. As I marched up to the judges table, my mind went blank…I couldn’t remember the name of any of the 3 tunes I was playing…after a long and awkward silence the judge told me to play and he would know.

also…..
I was competing as a soloist in St Andrews and I travelled up the night before…I thought I had everything with me but on the day of the competition as I was getting ready, putting on my socks, flashes etc I realised I had left the most important part of the uniform, my kilt in Glasgow.

14. What is your favourite tune to play as part of a band and as a soloist?

The Blue Cloud

15. Which piper do you most admire and why?

Roddy MacLeod as he is one of Scotland’s top pipers, I was very lucky that he wanted to teach me and I learned a lot from him, but also my uncle Jimmy for inspiring me to start piping and for always helping me at competitions with the tuning of my pipes and giving me advice to help improve my performance.

16. If you could invent/change one thing to make piping easier, what would it be?

Improving my memory would make piping easier.

17. Most people that haven’t visited an event were Pipe Bands are playing would associate the Bagpipes as a male instrument, are people surprised by your talent?

Yes, but there are more female pipers out there than what people think! Last year I was maid of honour at my friend’s wedding; the guests were truly amazed that a female piper played in the top table wearing a pink bridesmaid dress.

18. Do you have any tricks of the trade that you could let any beginners know about to make the learning process easier?

To practise. When I assisted in teaching the beginners classes you could easily spot the ones that had practised in between lessons and the ones that hadn’t lifted their chanter since the last lesson.

19. Do you worry about the future of the pipes when more and more of the younger generation are spending their time on PC’s and Games Consoles?

Yes and no. Yes in the sense that children in the UK are being surrounded by this technology and there are concerns surrounding children becoming less active and therefore being less likely to partake in sports and music in particular. I was lucky when I was growing up as I was always active by being part of a swimming team, ballet classes, and piping lessons, all of which I loved. However I know that piping lessons are becoming a more common occurrence in schools with specialised teachers going into schools to teach the instrument. At the end of the day, you will only practise if you have passion for the instrument and I think when it comes to the bagpipe you either love it or hate it.

20. If you could go back to the start and do it all again, is there anything you would have done differently?

No, I enjoyed every minute of it. Playing the bagpipes has opened up a lot of opportunities for me over the years and when you look at it like that, you really do appreciate what it’s done for you in your life.

Well there you go, an insight into the world of Bagpiping! I think Danielle has shown that this is definitely a female and male activity and that a lot of hard work goes into becoming a top Piper. If you want even more information on Piping then here might be good place to start. A huge thank you to Danielle for taking time to answer all my questions and we wish her the very best for the future.

If you have any comments or thoughts on the above Q and A then please do not hesitate to leave a comment or contact Gregor info@macgregorandmacduff.co.uk. Feel free to view our Website also www.macgregorandmacduff.co.uk.

Have you ever wondered how to make a Kilt?

8 yards of cloth, sewn and shaped in full by hand, to provide a garment of clothing which will last for literally years and years and be passed from generation to generation. The Kilt is synonymous with Scotland and the Scottish people yet very few could say they would even know how to start making one. Can we provide the information in one Blog? – No.

The profession of Kiltmaking is a complex and skilled Art that requires years of training and then even more years of learning through experience. There are so many different Tartans with different sett patterns, different types and weights of cloth and of course all the different sizes that the Kilt can be made to. All these factors make the process of making a Kilt tremendously difficult and amazing, so as mentioned we felt we could never attempt to put every stage down on this Blog, this is why we have made this a basic guide to give some insight and welcome anyone to contact us here to ask for more in-depth information and description.

We have asked one of our Kiltmakers to list the steps required to go from start to finish to cover the making of a Kilt. This particular lady has been making Kilts for 40 years and we are hugely lucky to have her and all our Kiltmakers. Good Kiltmakers, that can hand-sew a Kilt from start to finish, are becoming more and more scarce.

1. At MacGregor and MacDuff, 95% of the Kilts are made from 13oz or 16oz cloth which is a nice weight of cloth to work with. 95% of the time the Kilts I make are full 8 yard Kilts so step one is getting the cloth from the Store to begin the process.

2. The Kilt is then cut to the desired length, in most cases a customer will have been into one of the Stores and will have been measured by one of the Team so the measurement will have been agreed between the Team member and the customer. The sett of the Tartan is marked at this stage also.

3. Each Pleat of the Kilt is calculated, measured and stitched by hand. I mention ‘calculated’ because the pleats can differ depending on the sett pattern, the customers choice of pleating and the size of the customers waist and seat.

4. After pleating is finished, each pleat is stitched in to hold the pleats in position. The pleats are the most beautiful part of the Kilt in my opinion, the way the pleats move – ‘swish’ – when gents are wearing them makes the Kilt so popular worldwide.

5. The Kilt is cut out at the back and canvas is applied to give the Kilt strength and stability.

6. The buckles, straps and sporran loops are made up and stitched to the Kilt. The buckles and straps, just like the canvas and lining within a Kilt, can differ in quality and this is one way of distinguishing a quality Kilt from a cheap Kilt. Thankfully I only deal with the quality products because that is what I am used to but I do believe the lesser quality have a place in the industry to allow for more affordable Kilt options. The sporran loops should always be made from the same Tartan as the Kilt being made.

7. The waistband is stitched on and turned over and the Kilt is pressed. Every Kilt has a waistband which should be in the same Tartan as the rest of the Kilt. The Kilt should be pressed carefully to make sure the cloth has settled well and the pleats are sharp.

8. The lining is then stitched and appropriate labels are attached.

9. The Kilt is then re-pressed. This is the last press before the customer tries the garment on so it is important to make sure the pressing procedure is done properly at this point.

10. The Kilt cloth, stitching, etc., is all checked to make sure the finished garment is suitable for the customer.

Thank you for allowing me to share my skills with you, I enjoy every Kilt that I make because they all differ and the sense of completion I feel from seeing a piece of cloth turn into a Kilt is something which keeps me sewing.

As mentioned previously this is a hugely diluted version of the Kiltmaking process but we hope it will generate some interest in this fantastic profession and look forward to hearing from you if you require more information. If you have any thoughts on the above then please do not hesitate to comment or contact Gregor info@macgregorandmacduff.co.uk. Feel free to visit our Website also www.macgregorandmacduff.co.uk

Although I have always been aware of Highland Dancing, I never knew much about it. I also thought it was generally a female activity so when I came across Oliver, a male Highland Dancer, I was most keen to ask him a few questions. For a more in depth explanation of Highland Dancing then follow the link here but for a more relaxed insight then please read further.

1.       Can you please introduce yourself in less than 50 words?

My name is Oliver Brown, I was born on the Isle of Man, but now live in Portsmouth. My father’s side of the family are of Scottish roots, descending from the MacMillan Clan. I keep active in various ways which led me to Highland Dancing.

2.       How long have you been a Highland Dancer?

I have been a Highland Dancer for around 6 years.

3.       What prompted you to try Highland Dancing?

One of my good friends had been dancing from a young age as her Grandmother was a Professional Dancer and was teaching her. I decided to start as it seems different particularly being in the South of England.

4.       Can anyone be a ‘good’ Highland Dancer or do you need natural talent?

I would say anyone can do Highland Dancing. As for being a good highland dancer, it takes a lot of effort and flexibility. For some it takes more work than others. I think it is not a natural talent at Highland Dancing you require but a natural body tension and flexibility something that is a natural talent to all dancing

5.       Have you won anything during your time as a Highland Dancer?

I have never had the opportunity to compete. Firstly again in England there are not many competitions in such a discipline. Most of my dancing focused on performances. One in particular was dancing on HMS Warrior, one of the first iron hulled warships in the Navy. This was not only a high profile event but also was a technical challenge with dancing on the mess deck with chains, cannons and over hanging swords.

6.       To be at the top level of Highland Dancing, how much time do you need to spend practising per week?

Initially it takes a lot of effort and time but once you get used to the principles of Highland Dance you can quite easily pick up another dance. One of my fellow dancers put in several hours a week and her performances were immaculate, but another did a consistent few hours and was equally as impressive. This in away comes down to the ‘natural talent’ I talked about above, it comes easier to some than it does to others.

7.       The Full Regalia, how much does the whole Outfit cost?

This was quite interesting for me, when I first looked into getting an outfit it was quite an eye opener. Male kilts have larger pleats than female kilts; this made it more expensive due to more material. Plus with using it for dancing, the type and weight of tartan comes into play.

Initially I started with the basics of the outfit and have gradually added to it over time. Over all it cost £900-£1000 for my full dress. The most important piece of advice would be to shop around, by doing this I found reasonably priced, made to measure items. Buy it from someone who knows what they are selling as they are able to give you advice and not just sell a Kilt.     

8.       How many different dances are there to learn?

With Highland Dancing the dances are mostly pre-defined. With the history Highland Dance has, there are hundreds of dances, plus there are more being added.

I only know a select few dances, around a dozen or so, some are individual dances others as a group. Each dance has its own ‘style’ as such using a different set of core steps or a theme; I found I preferred certain dances, such as the Sword Dance, due to the core steps. Then others dances like the Hielan Laddie, I really struggled with.

I have never met anyone that knows all the dances, nor do I see it being easy to.

9.       Does the Male Highland Dancing differ from the Female Dancing?

It does differ, not majorly. I was the only Male dancer in my troop so I stood out at times. The main difference is the arm positions, your arms are either up, with your hand in the shape of a Stag (middle and thumb together at the tips, the rest of the fingers flexed back) or down on your hips. This is where the difference lies, in most, if not all dances, there are times where a male dancer will raise his arms where a female will not.

10.   Can you compare Highland Dancing to the Riverdance in terms of technique?

It’s an interesting question. If you break them down, Highland dance is a ‘pure’ form of dance that has developed in Scotland over many years, whereas Riverdance is a fusion with elements of tap and a wide variety of other dances, with its roots in Irish Dance.

I would not personally say they are comparable in technique but have similar principles of body tension, extension and flexibility but then you could say they are comparable to ballet in that context.

11.   If there was a Film to be made about Highland Dancing, which famous actor, male and female, would you chose in the Lead Role?

This would be very interesting. It would be good to see the actors Christian Bale and Cate Blanchett I think as they have the right image to portray Highland Dancing well. The issue would be getting them to dance and how well they could do it. All would be fine so long as they don’t make them have Scottish accents, not all Highland Dancers are Scottish.

12.   Is there a humorous story you can tell us about your time Dancing?

There are many times when practicing that I can remember that were funny, mostly due to mine and my fellow dancers antics with each other, but one of the most prominent times does not involve me but in fact the mothers of some of the dancers.

We had taught them the Board Swords, a group dance over 4 crossed swords. They were showing what they had learnt to the rest of the class and not even passed the first step, one of them kicked the swords. Something that happens to all dancers but she did very well. She managed to not just kick one of them out place but all 4 off the stage in one step, leaving all four of them stood there with not a sword left, other than the 4 scattered across the room.

13.   Is there a trick-of-the-trade that non-dancers would never think of but is used by all Dancers?

Well I am sure different dancers have different ways and different teachers have their own techniques.

Things I have been shown are mostly tricks in training of how to get the move right. Examples of this is dancing up against a wall while doing double cuts to ensure your knees are flat out and in the back step, which you are not actually meant to move backwards on, to start dancing on an A4 piece of paper and then when you are used to that, do them on A5 paper.

One interesting trick I was taught was when doing double cuts is to aim to bruise the back of you calf to make it sharp and sound good, not that I ever manage to get any bruises.

14.   If you were to perform for any one individual, who would that be and to what song?

That performance would have to be special… I am not sure who it would be to, but I know what I would want to do. I once danced a while ago now The Sword dance, where one dancer dances over one set of crossed swords. In the dance you cross over the swords, but this time I had learnt with one of my fellow dancers to do it together on one set of swords. This meant we were crossing over each other in close quarters; it was a challenge and very impressive viewing. Above all satisfying, unfortunately she has now moved to Australia so to be able to dance it again would be special.

15.   If you could invent or erase one thing to make Highland Dancing easier for Highland Dancers, what would that be?

To make it easier it would change the whole of Highland Dance. To pick one thing I would have to say the Highland Dress. To look the part you aim to wear full highland dress when performing. Over the year I have become used to this and in fact the weight of the kilt helps with the posture while dancing but parts of the dress like the Sgain Dubh, Plaid, Jacket and most of all the kilt pin get in the way. I now tape the Sgain Dubh to my leg and have several spare kilt pins, there are ways to deal with it, but without it would be a lot easier.

16.   How does Highland Dancing encourage interest from the youth of today who seem more impressed by XBOX and SEGA?

Well considering I picked it up in my youth you would think I would have an idea. With where I live you really have to have some connection to Scotland to actually lead you to Dancing, all of those in my dance class did. What would draw you away from games consoles, well firstly I was the only guy in my class so not a bad situation to be in.

Ultimately a lot of young people today they are concerned with image.  With Highland Dancing it keeps you in shape and also, for guys, it does not have the same stigma as other forms of dance eg. Ballet.

Plus there is a good social aspect as the dances are very involved and you grow close to other dancers, helping each other learn and also working together in the group dances.

17.   What age are you too old to compete in Highland Dancing?

Not ever being part of competitions I could not say, but to actually Highland Dance there is no limit. I have taught and danced with people of all ages. So long as you are still nimble, you can still dance.

18.   What separates the really top Dancers from the rest?

If anything it is complex combination. You don’t just have to be able to perform the moves correctly but to have the stamina over a strenuous dance to keep the moves correct. To have your foot pointed at every extension and arms held high. This is incredibly difficult to maintain when you are doing a string of dances at a Burns Night.

Well there you go, an insight into the world of Highland Dancing! I think Oliver has shown that this is definitely a male and female activity and that a lot of hard work goes into making it look good. If you want even more information on Highland Dancing then here might be good place to start. A huge thank you to Oliver for taking time to answer all my questions and we wish him the very best for the future.

If you have any comments or thoughts on the above Q and A then please do not hesitate to leave a comment or contact Gregor info@macgregorandmacduff.co.uk. Feel free to view our Website also www.macgregorandmacduff.co.uk.

We have been very fortunate to get an interview with Brian Wilton, the Director of the Scottish Tartan Authority. Brian is incredibly busy and catching him for this piece was a real treat. A huge thank you to Brian for this.

1. For those that have heard the name but haven’t visited your Website www.tartansauthority.com what is the purpose of the Scottish Tartan Authority in less than 50 words?

To inform, educate and provide information on tartan and Highland dress to the trade, public and the media and to promote the genuine Scottish product on the international market. To assist and lobby for the interest of all sectors of the industry.

2. How long have you been involved with the S.T.A.?

Since its formation in 1995

3. What do you enjoy best about your work with the S.T.A. and what are the things which make you wish you had stayed in bed?

The enjoyable part is being in a position to help so many thousands of enquirers find and source their tartan. No two days are ever the same and promoting tartan overseas is possibly the highlight which has taken me to Norway, Netherlands, Italy, Russia and the USA. 

Stay in bed? The perennial fight to persuade those in the corridors of power that tartan is the greatest national icon in the world and that the Government should be supporting it wholeheartedly as a major economic tool.

4. If your S.T.A. Office and everything in it was to be demolished what one item would you keep?

That’s a no-brainer . . . the computer!  But . . . other than that I would take the two-volume set of Victorian water colours by Kenneth Macleay – the most exact and beautiful portraits of Highlanders ever produced.

5. You have received wanted and unwanted Media coverage over the years. Do you get recognised often when you are out-and-about?

Rarely if ever except when there’s been the umpteenth replay of the ‘Made in Scotland’ series where I briefly appeared with John Michie of ‘Taggart’ fame.

6. With each generation, have you witnessed different levels of passion towards Scotland and its Tartans?

I haven’t actually been around in tartan for that long! But I take your point – the more troubled and unstable the world becomes I think the greater is the need for people to seek the security of ‘belonging’. The Scots are and have been hugely admired around the globe for generations and I don’t think there can be a race to which more people wish they belonged!

If they can prove that they have a scintilla of Scottish blood then they’re delighted and want to identify and wear their tartan.

7. My recent Blog – Scottish Companies that have or are Making a Difference offered my personal thoughts, from limited knowledge, on Companies that have made and are making a difference in the Kilt Industry. If you had to name a Company that has made a difference in the past and one that is currently making a difference, who would they be and why?

I think I would have to pick Lochcarron of Scotland who are probably the most proactive of weavers and designers who have formed relationships with the majority of leading fashion designers.  The other would be Howie Nicholsby’s 21st Century Kilts who has helped to push out the fashion boundaries of kilts and Highland dress and shown that the medium is not preserved in Victorian aspic but is alive, well and moving with the times.

8. With constantly changing technology and huge reliance on Social Media and the Internet, how does a ‘Traditional’ Charity like the S.T.A. keep evolving to meet Consumers and Browsers demands?

The simple answer to that is that we don’t . . . . at the moment . . . But it’s in hand! WE have a grant from the Scottish Government to further upgrade the website and embrace all these trendy developments. I’m thinking of appointing my 16 year old daughter as consultant since she seems to have made a career on Facebook.

9. Through your work with the S.T.A. who is the most famous person you have ever met?

Probably Nelson Mandela.

10. I recently visited some friends in the Bahamas and aside from having to make and take over some Kilts in the Bahamas Tartan (interesting colours!!) I was invited to a Burns Night, unfortunately Sean Connery could not attend. Where is the most bizarre place that you have dealt with an enquiry from or heard about a Scottish event being held? (other than Fred MacAuley on Mount Kilimanjaro).

Probably 100 miles north of the Arctic circle in Norway where I was invited to address a  Norwegian craft society.

11. When you were growing up, who was your hero and now that you are older, who do you most respect? (famous people only please)

Undoubtedly Wilson from D C Thomsons’s Wizard comic! Apart from that I honestly don’t know but the people who were heroes to me were all the pioneering settlers who left Scotland to settle in Canada and the USA. I have often dreamt about being amongst their numbers.

12. In a phrase or a collection of words how would you like the S.T.A. to be viewed in 10 years time?

As a vibrant organisation working effectively to promote Scotland, tartan and all its associated heritage.

13. Which country or nationality other than Scotland is most passionate about Scotland?

The United States.

14. The Tartan Herald is a great read and full of really interesting stories. To read it you need to be a Member of the S.T.A. Can anyone become a Member or do you need to be involved in the Kilt Industry?

Anyone can become a member and we have them dotted around the world. Going off on a tangent it might be of interest to learn that we get just under a thousand visitors a day to our website and they  invariably come from 109 different countries – proof of the global spread of we Scots..

15. Lots of Mills are producing cloth with a Tuck-in Selvedge as opposed to the Traditional Selvedge, does the S.T.A. have an opinion on this?

A technical topic about which I don’t have a great deal of knowledge but as far as I’m aware,  weavers have taken note of the concerns expressed and are seeking ways of improving the quality of the tuck-in selvedge (glued hem)  and are also retaining the looms which produce the traditional selvedge.

16. In light of the recent Newspaper reports concerning non-Made in Scotland goods being sold as Made in Scotland goods, what can the Industry do to try and combat this?

 1. Beat politicians and trading standard departments around the ears to interpret and implement existing powers to prosecute.

2. Lobby for EU Geographical Indication protection to be extended to non food & drink products such as ‘Scottish Tartan’

3. Emphasise the positive – shout it from the rooftops that our goods are the genuine ‘McCoy’.

4. Seek government funding to establish a global awareness campaign about the genuine Scottish mark.

Once again a big thank you to Brian for allowing us this interview, hopefully he will guest Blog for us again when he is less busy and we can learn more about his meeting with Nelson Mandela, his fight with the corridors of power and his obvious passion for Scotland and Tartan.

If you have any thoughts on any of content above then please leave a comment or email Gregor info@macgregorandmacduff.co.uk. Don’t forget to browse our Website www.macgregorandmacduff.co.uk

MacGregor and MacDuff are members of the Scottish Tartan Authority and contributors and readers of various Worldwide Blogs, Forums and Associations. Through this activity we come across some wierd, wonderful and interesting news and conversation, we thought we would occasionally share this with you. Welcome to Part 2.

You can see from the Logo that Kiltr is still being Beta tested but hopefully this will become a major Networking Site of the future. It is a Linkedin for Scotland basically as it allows Scottish Busniessmen and women to network for everyones benefit. We wish the Company real success in their growth. Great Idea.

Fantastic achievement by Scottish Actor Kelly McDonald, nominated for a Golden Globe this week and just missing out to Jane Lynch from Glee, not to be too disappointed considering Glee is currently taking over the World. 

Another victory for Glasgow as for a record 4th year out of the last ten, we have won the Curry Capital of the Year Award for Britain. Fighting off competition from 11 other cities, Glasgow won the Title due to its high standards of food, service and cleanliness.

  If you look closely you will see that the Kilt has even made it onto a Smurf (second from right). This is a promotional shot for the new Smurf movie out this year. Is there anywhere the Kilt hasn’t been?

An ambitious attempt by Event Scotland to have Glasgow or Edinburgh host the Grand Depart which is the opening stage of the Tour De France. It is estimated that it will cost £5million to host but could bring £100million into Scotland. Good Luck Event Scotland.

Interesting Fact. Did you know that the World’s first full colour photographic image was of Tartan? Well you do now! James Clerk Maxwell and Thomas Sutton are responsible for the image, dating back to 1861.  

Sir Ernest Shackleton failed in an attempt to reach the South Pole in 1909. With him on this expedition where at least 5 crates of Whisky and Brandy and they were not all drunk. More than 100 years later in the Ice under the explorers Hut, 5 crates have been discovered. One of these crates was a case of MacKinlay Whisky which has now been flown back to Scotland from New Zealand where it was being held. The bottles will be examined in Laboratories to try and re-discover an old recipe previously lost for making the famous Whisky.

A generous Las Vegas millionaire has passed away, leaving a substantial amount of money to the National Trust for Scotland. William R Lindsay, an extremely private individual has donated over £2.5million pounds to the Trust over the last 18 months and with his death, the trust is expected to be a major beneficiary from his estate. Mr Lindsay has supposedly never visited Scotland but had a historic link with Scotland and a passion for our History.

If you thought the Ballet was all about ’pas de chat’ and ‘pirouette’ then you are wrong. Nothing like a good Ceilidh to brighten up the mood. Have a look at this You Tube video to see the Tartan Kilts in all their splendour. Pennsylvania Ballet: La Sylphide, Act One.

  I thought a nice finish to this update would be to mention the Panda’s that are coming to Edinburgh Zoo. They will be the first Pandas to live in the UK for 17 years so it is a major coup for the Zoo and the City. Tian Tian and Yangguang will be with us soon so make sure you pay them a visit, now I wonder how we could get a Kilt on them?

We would love to hear any comments you have on the topics above and feel free to browse our Website www.macgregorandmacduff.co.uk

In the past, the process of Buying a Kilt Outfit was relatively simple. You would visit a Kilt Shop, pick a Tartan that was related to your family, get measured for your Kilt and Jacket and return in 6-8 weeks to collect your purchase.

This has now changed, for the better. Like every Industry, the Kilt Industry has had to move with the times, something I talk about in a previous Blog. We now have to offer more styles, more cloths, different qualities, etc., because no longer is it just acceptable to offer one Outfit, the Customer demands and deserves greater choice.

The ’problem’ which Kilt Shop owners face is that although we wish to offer greater choice, we are restricted by the number and diversity of our suppliers. The Industry is not huge and most Kilt Stores need to deal with roughly the same suppliers for most items. As a Customer, you need to do your research, look at pricing, product and Customer Service and make your Kilt Company choice from this.

When visiting a Kilt Store to Buy a Kilt Outfit, make sure you consider the following 10 items before your purchase:

1. Your Tartan. Not everyone has a Family Tartan so this might be an easy decision because you would just pick a Tartan that you liked the look of but at least find out first. Ask the Store, if possible, to locate your Family Tartan, they will be able to show you a sample of it in one of the Cloth Books, if you get lucky you might really like it and similarly you may not fancy it but nothing ventured nothing gained.

2. Cloth Choice. Once you have selected your Tartan, you should then be given at least 2-4 different Mills to choose your Cloth from. The Store will advise you on their opinion on the different weights of Cloth and the different Mill quality but be aware not all Stores agree with each other on this, there are differing opinions. My advice is to listen to as many opinions as possible and make your own decision or if you find a Store that you trust then take their guidance. Make sure you have the Selvidge Edge explained to you before your purchase.

3. Quality of Kilt. Kilts are like very other item of clothing. Why do you get Black Shirts in Primark that are a tenth of the price of a Shirt from Hugo Boss? The Kilt cloth, the standard of Kiltmaking, behind-the-scenes Canvas and Lining, etc., all influence the price. With a Kilt, do not think you have found a bargain because if its cheap, then it is cheap. That does not mean it is not to be worn because you may not need a top quality item but with Kilts the saying, ‘You get what you pay for’, is 100% correct. Be wary of Companies that offer different forms of Kiltmaking, this is a way Companies can make money from you. Make sure you find out the exact reasons for the different Kiltmaking techniques because some will say fully handmade but they are not!

4. Jacket Style. This is were the most progress has been made in Highlandwear. The Kilt has essentially remained the Kilt other than different colours but the Jackets have evolved from the really Traditional Jackets to the really Modern Jackets. The Prince Charlie and Vest is the Jacket most commonly associated with the Traditional Kilt Outfit but now the Argyll/Crail has taken over as the Jacket style of choice with many variations of it. Make sure you are guided through all choices and try them on as some body shapes suit different Jacket styles.

5. Jacket Quality. Manufacturing is a dying trade all over Britain in all Industries so Highlandwear is no different. Most of the Jackets are now imported but there are still a few of us trying to keep the Made In Scotland Flag flying. Ask the Store if the Jacket you are buying is in fact imported or Made in Scotland. A Made in Scotland Jacket will cost more so don’t fall for the ‘bargain’ again.

6. Flasheswill almost definitely come with the Kilt and most probably be in the Tartan of the Kilt. If you feel this means too much Tartan in your Outfit then opt for self-coloured Flashes instead. Tartan Flashes usually show that it is a made-to-measure Kilt as opposed to a Hired Kilt.

7. Sgian Dubh. First decision is Real or Replica? Replica is very useful if you are travelling through Airport Security or visiting Nightclubs etc., not a huge variety of choice though. Real Sgian Dubh’s are nice to have and Traditional and you have a huge choice of products to choose from. You can opt for Clan Crest or choose a plain top or a Stone top that suits your Outfits colours.

8. Kilt Pin. Required but as a decorative feature. I have seen them used to pin the front and back aprons of the Kilt together but this is not their purpose. This is an opportunity to show your Clan Crest or choose from the many different Kilt Pin designs and styles that are available.

9. Sporran. Make sure the Chain Strap comes with the Sporran, you would be disappointed if this wasn’t the case. Your Sporran style should be decided by your Jacket choice but nowadays people do not follow etiquette as closely so you may just choose from personal taste. You can get all leather, semi-dress, Dress Sporrans etc., lots of choice with lots of different skins to choose from however the latest Seal-Skin Sporran Ban has caused major issue with our Sporran Makers, ask your Kilt Store to update you.

10. Shoes. Many have tried and failed to change the Traditional Ghillie Broguewith up-the-leg laces. I have seen many attempts but unless you get it right then it just looks a little silly. Don’t try something different without taking opinions from those you trust. To date the most acceptable ‘shoe’ with the Kilt is the Ghillie Brogue with the normal laces. You should get the choice of Rubber or Leather Soles when purchasing Shoes so ask to see and try both.

Of course there are many other parts to the Kilt Outfit – Socks, Shirt and Tie. You may also wish a Ghillie Shirt, Kilt Wardrobe etc., there are lots of other accessories you can purchase.

When buying a Kilt Outfit, take your time, have a look around different Companies and remember and consider the points above. Hope this has been of help.

Please feel free to comment on this or any of our Blogs. We are always open to discussion or visit our Website www.macgregorandmacduff.co.uk

Until the mid-1990′s, the Kilt Industry was always considered as ‘Traditional’ and the Companies involved in the Industry stuck to that ‘Traditional’ Business Model. Now the Kilt Industry is vibrant, interesting and cool and this is because some Companies Made and some Companies are Making a Difference. No longer is there a Traditional Business Model to follow, it is now all about celebrating Scotland, Scottish People and Tartan.

I have been involved with Kilts since 1995 and I feel I have therefore earned the right to comment on the evolution, over that particular time, of the Kilt Industry. I am in no way saying that I am statistically correct in my thoughts and there is no financial knowledge behind my thinking but in this Blog I aim to give a ‘man-on-the-street’ opinion on which Companies have Made and are Making a Difference to our Industry.

The Kilt was traditionally worn with a Prince Charlie & Vest and Traditional Family Tartan. If you attended a Wedding/Event in the mid-1990′s, this is the look that you would most commonly see: http://www.macgregorandmacduff.co.uk/kilt_sales.htm#599.

A few Kilt Companies started to try and change this image to make sure the youth of the day continued to desire the Kilt. They succeeded and thankfully the Kilt Industry grew when it was in danger of dying. Suddenly we had a wave of new, interesting Kilt Outfits, Tartan Suits, Tartan Waistcoats etc., but the person that stole the show was Howie Nicholsby, who created 21st Century Kilts in 1996 and launched in 1999 at London Fashion Week. http://www.21stcenturykilts.com/. As a young British Designer, he was able to get Vin Diesel and Robbie Williams to wear his Kilts and happily be photographed wearing them, this catapulted Kilts onto the front pages of Newspapers and Magazines Worldwide.

Howie was interested in the weird and wonderful and although this was great as a Fashion experience it did not fill the gap left for the average person on the street that was now interested in wearing the Kilt but not wishing Camouflage, Leather or Traditional. This is wear Slanj moved in http://www.slanjkilts.com/. Slanj were a Basement Store in Glasgow for years but eventually took the brave and risky decision of taking it High Street. Their move to a greater footfall location in the past would have been a disaster but with the Howie revival, some excellent Marketing and a more ‘sensible’ product range, Slanj offered the ‘man-on-the-street’ the option of buying a Kilt Outfit different to the norm. Slanj did not Hire though and this subsequently opened the door to all the other Kilt Stores to offer their Hire customers a more desired Kilt Look. This saw the birth of the Plain Black and Grey Kilts with more Contemporary and Modern Jackets which have now been adapted to satisfy general tastes http://www.macgregorandmacduff.co.uk/kilt_sales.htm#orchy. Slanj not only took the Kilt to the High Street but their clever Marketing efforts propelled the Kilt Industry into a new dimension and all to our advantage but mostly to theirs as whenever Kilts are mentioned, a large percentage of the population would think firstly of Slanj.

During all this time, On-Line was obviously becoming stronger and stronger and the number of Sites suddenly appearing selling Tartan became incredible. Sites selling ‘Tartan Tat’ became quite damaging to the on-line Tartan Industry. Thankfully now Consumers are more experienced and knowledgeable on the Web and can differentiate between a good Scottish company and one that is making a ‘quick buck’. Scotweb http://www.scotweb.co.uk/are a huge on-line business, started in 1995, now offering many different attributes. They are keen sponsors of Scottish Forums and offer lots of Scottish Information on their Site. They also have a wide and varied product range of Highlandwear. Currently they are the Site that other on-line Retail Stores are trying to emulate.

The industry has now settled down a lot with Kilt Companies sticking to their core products more than ever. If you want weird and wonderful, you can still get it, if you want Traditional it is there also and if you want something a bit different with a Traditional but Modern Look then it is readily available. Instead of doing everything, now companies focus on what they are good at and this is hugely beneficial to the customer.

MacGregor and MacDuff Kiltmakers are an excellent example of this www.macgregorandmacduff.co.uk. They were established in 1979 and have always been a family business. They have never been the leaders of the revolution but have always supported and moved with the times. They are able to combine their Traditional values of quality, knowledge and honesty with the current need to be creative, adaptable and varied. In Hire they offer Traditional, Modern and Contemporary Outfits, In Sales they continue to use Traditional methods but ensure they offer variety of choice at a competitive price without reducing quality and On-Line they are engaging with people, embracing Scotland and supporting the Made in Scotland mission. After working away quietly in the background for years they are now masters at their art across all the disciplines and may be the ones to lead us forward over 2011/2012.

MacDonald Sporrans run a very clever and interesting on-line business http://macdonald-sporrans.com/, where they focus on three different products. Tankards, Hip-Flasks and Kilts. They run a very up-to-date Web experience which enables people to communicate with them through Live Chat which is excellent for Customer Service. Trading since 2004, they definitely look like a company that is embracing everything Web and Social Media. I look forward to what they have to offer over 2011.

Last Company that I feel are Making a Difference is Harris Tweed Hebrides http://www.harristweedhebrides.com/. They are responsible for over 90% of Harris Tweed production. The Company was named Textile Brand of the Year in 2009 and given the accolade for Outstanding Contribution at the Scottish Style Awards in 2009. In their own words, Harris Tweed Hebrides has brought a new twist to an old yarn. One to Watch!

Hopefully over the next few months I can look at more Companies that are Making a Difference or feel they have Made a Difference. It is important to promote as many Scottish Companies as possible.

If you wish to comment on this Blog or as a Company wish to send me your ‘CV’, then please get in touch at info@macgregorandmacduff.co.uk.

We have pinpointed 5 occasions when you should wear the Kilt this Festive Period. You don’t have to wear the whole Kilt Outfit every time you wear a Kilt. You can wear the Kilt with a casual shirt or jumper and any type of footwear, just by wearing the Kilt you will make Christmas and New Year more special for you and others.

If you don’t own a Kilt then you can Hire the Kilt, Sporran and Belt from any Kilt Store. MacGregor and MacDuff do a ‘bottom half’ Hire for £33. www.macgregorandmacduff.co.uk

1. Christmas Work Night Out - read our previous MacBlog on why we think this is a good idea. http://www.macgregorandmacduff.co.uk/kiltmaker/?p=146

2.  Christmas Day – If you are celebrating Christmas in Scotland then you should be wearing the Kilt. Christmas Day is when everyone gets dressed up smart with their new clothes received as presents from loved ones, it is a day when family and friends come together and there is an overwhelming sense of tradition, love and pride. Make everyone’s day more special and look that extra bit Scottish by wearing the Kilt.

3. To the Pub – between Christmas and New Year, Scotland is a haze of drunkiness. Most people are off work, friends and family are home for the festive season and due to the cold and dark days, the need to go to the pub seems to increase. Wear the Kilt to the pub, it is totally accepted to do so, after all, it is the time of Goodwill to all Men.

4. New Year’s Eve – Need I say anymore!! A Must.

5. New Year’s Day – One last effort, Work is around the corner, family and friends are heading back to where they live and 2011 is upon us. Make the effort, wear the Kilt and make the day as special as possible to start the New Year with a Bang.

If you need to Hire a Kilt, as mentioned above, you can Hire just the Kilt, Sporran and Belt for just £33 and pick from any of the Tartans on this link:http://www.macgregorandmacduff.co.uk/Kilts_hire.htm

We would love to hear any comments you have on the above MacBlog.

MacGregor and MacDuff are members of the Scottish Tartan Authority and contributors and readers of various Worldwide Blogs, Forums and Associations. Through this activity we come across some wierd, wonderful and interesting news and conversation, we thought we would occasionally share this with you.

Thank You to Google for taking part in our St.Andrews Day celebrations last month. This icon was the Official Search HomePage for Google for the 30th November 2010.

For the first time ever, the White House officially sent Scotland a message for St.Andrews Day, Hilary Clinton “congratulated” the people of Scotland and our “unique culture”.

Currently leading Scotland’s Entrepreneurial charge, Michelle Mone, recently awarded an OBE, has launched a limited edition range made from Ultimo Tartan.                                                                                                                       As you know, the Americans are crazy about Scotland and most States now have their own official Tartan. The latest to join is The Michigan State Tartan which has been accepted by Michigan State and completes the full collection for all the Great Lakes States having their own Tartan.

Brian Wilton the Scottish Tartan Authority Director became a very popular man last month due to a comment he made concerning what to wear under your Kilt. For hygiene reasons and for consideration of others, he ‘suggested’ wearing underwear, WELL, that did not go down well. The Daily Telegraph, The Washington Post and The New York Times all ran articles on this. MacGregor and MacDuff are involved in many Blogs and Forums and Brian was a very popular topic for a week or two. Countless articles and Radio conversations mentioned the subject and Brian did his and the STA’s Google Ranking no harm at all. For the record, Brian only suggested, he did not say it was mandatory but as he has since mentioned , all publicity is good publicity so Brian and the STA will I am sure be the winners from all of this.

Independent Clothing Store, Ness, has opened in the St. Enoch’s Centre bringing its unique Tartan designs to Glasgow. They currently have two Stores on the Royal Mile so have a look and let us know what you think!

Foodscapes – Food Art – making landscapes out of food. Carl Warner is a photographer who has become known Worldwide with his Foodscapes. He recently made a portrait, out of Food, of our own Billy Connelly complete with Tartan Jacket. (below)                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         

Oor Wullie Scarfs from the House of Edgar. Well Done to all involved in the creation of the Oor Wullie Scarf, very clever idea and by all accounts a very popular idea. We are out-of-stock until ….. but we will announce their arrival on our Facebook Page.

Lochcarron are a leading Weaver in our industry and are always leading the way with the way they present their products. They often mix their traditional product with modern looks and even Viviene Westwood has had cloth woven by them for her collections. Anyway they came up with a unique way to show their range of Tartans at a recent London Exhibition, we all thought this was a great idea. (Butterfly Collection Below) www.lochcarron.com

Hello Kitty – don’t know how many of you will have heard about this but it is the Japanese equivalent to Mickey Mouse. Lochcarron mentioned above have designed a Tartan Scarf for them and I hope you are sitting down for this, the scarfs are for sale for £1,300.                                                                             

November 24th was National Opt-Out Day in America as thousands of people protested against the new scanners implemented into Airports. They argue against the exposure to radiation and the privacy issue of being viewed through the ‘naked-scanner’. You can opt-out of this type of scan but be aware you will receive a rigorous full-body search. The plan is to wear Kilts! Opt-out of the scan, take the full body search and enjoy the reaction of the security as they discover you have gone commando. The Scottish Forums and Ex-Pat Magazines have been going crazy over this with countless stories of people’s experiences.

Glasgow girl wins Turner Prize. Susan Philipsz has won the Turner Prize for her frailly beautiful voice singing a Scottish lament over the black waters of The Clyde. She is the first person in the history of the award to have created nothing that you can see or touch, she sculpted her prizewinning work in sound.

We would love to hear any comments you have on any of the topics above and feel free to browse our Website www.macgregorandmacduff.co.uk

We asked the Ladies in the MacGregor and MacDuff Team to give reasons why a Guy should wear a Kilt to their Christmas work night out. Here are the top seven answers:

7. It gives us Ladies a chance to see if the guy has nice legs.

6. Shows the guy is confident in himself and not afraid to do something a bit different.

5. Guys in Kilts are more likely to relax and have more fun.

4. Allows us girls to chat with each other and guess what the guys are wearing under their Kilts.

3. Nice to see them in something other than trousers which we see them in everyday.

2. Shows that they have made a real effort.

1. Ladies just can’t resist a Man in a Kilt!

I think we could have guessed that would be the top reason.

For details on how you can Hire a Kilt right up until the day of your event, visit http://www.macgregorandmacduff.co.uk/  and visit our dedicated Kilt Hire page http://www.macgregorandmacduff.co.uk/Kilts_hire.htm.